Stud dogs -The Mating

''A Read Only Section open also to non-members '' covering we hope many of the queries and questions you might have. We hope some of you will find this section informative~ all copyrights belong to BTW & must not be copied and used elsewhere without full credit!
Post Reply
User avatar
BTW Owner
BTW Owner
Posts: 28052
Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2005 14:06
Location: Lancashire -the RED ROSE county

Stud dogs -The Mating

#1 Post by Su » Mon Mar 02, 2009 8:29

Stud dogs. the mating..from Su

First you must consider is your stud dog suitable to be used  A bitch owner can go to any of the top stud dogs in the country. So, what does your dog have to offer?

Is he of good temperament and is he physically sound without any major faults?.
Also, have you weighed up the possible problems of allowing a pet dog to be used at stud.( see thread above)
One of the most important points,does your dog have correct dentition. Our breed is prone to mouths with teeth out of line,so be sure your potential stud is '' fit for purpose''  It is always a good idea to ask the bitch owner too about the bitches mouth and to double check when she visits.

So assuming all the details have been worked out first ..

Traditionally the bitch visits the dog. Arrange the stud fee before the event & it is expected the fee will be paid on the day after a successful mating, unless different arrangments are made prior to the actual mating.
The stud owner should  give the bitch owner a written receipt for any monies paid and also state in writing if the bitch may return for a free mating if no live puppies result, or any other agreement or conditions . Agree all this first so there is no misunderstanding or confusion later.
Also on the day of the mating the stud owner should give a copy of the dogs pedigree and a signed and dated Kennel Club  Application for litter Registration FORM 1 .


NEVER correct a young male/puppy that you intend using in the future as a stud dog  for mounting a bitch.  Either separate the two, or allow the bitch to correct the boy herself.  Given the opportunity a bitch will almost always take care of herself.  If she has been corrected for being aggressive (such as when she is on lead), encourage her to take action, but do not yell at the dog or push him off .  
The age of first mating's for males varies from owner to owner.  Males are usually physically capable of producing puppies by 8-9 months, some much younger so do not ever leave a puppy of 5mth onwards with an in season bitch, because its possible he will mate her..  Many owners like to wait until the male is older, more mature, and has had all his health screenings.  In my opinion terriers are best if they can have their first bitch around 10-12mth of age.
A younger male can sometimes present a challenge to start because their ridiculous enthusiasm combined with a lack of concentration, this can make a first mating almost impossible..often over keen inexperienced males will even mount the wrong end..First time mating's are best if possible with experienced bitches. Try to avoid maiden bitches (although sometimes this just isn't possible), aggressive bitches or bitches who have had past reproductive problems.  Try to make his first bitch is at least even-tempered enough to allow misbehaviors from an inexperienced stud dog. A scared or aggressive first bitch might put your young dog off for life and ruin his potential to become a successful Stud. .. Remember, bitches tend to lose patience with an over-eager male who does not know what he is doing. :  
If you intend to have your male used frequently then you will have to spend time with him in the beginning helping him perform. Some experienced stud dogs will tell you when a bitch is ready and not mate bitches unless they are..  He will only mount her when he believes she is ready and he will pay close attention to her signals.  The majority of the time you aren't going to be anywhere near that lucky! especially with inexperienced dogs.  If the stud dog or bitch are inexperienced, YOU are going to have to determine when is the proper time for mating them.
Introduce the dog and bitch a few times before the breeding is to take place.  Allow the two to interact – flirt, chase and mock-breed (if the bitch allows it).  Watch the bitch’s behaviour, and if you need to, make notes about how she is acting with the dog.  In the beginning she may sit firmly on her bottom refusing all overtures by the stud.or she may play, flirt  and allow him to sniff her behind.  She may progress to allowing him to mount her, and eventually (hopefully) she will stand and flag.  Also watch your dog’s behaviour.  In the beginning he will chase and court her by standing on tip-toes and placing his head over her shoulders.   Soon he will want to mount her -- first in play, and then more seriously as she stands and allows him.   Watch for signs of aggression from either of them.  Sometimes the bitch will get cranky right before she becomes fully ready.  Occasionally the dog will try to bully a bitch into submission before she is ready to stand.  Separate the two and try again later.
If you want to be more precise, you may use diagnostic testing to determine the bitch’s readiness to stand.  
When a bitch is standing and flagging, or when it is determined by testing that she is ready, introduce the dog and bitch in a controlled manner (small room, or on lead).  Allow the two to flirt and play for a few minutes to get them comfortable with each other.  Have one person restrain the bitch in a way that she is comfortable with.   its handy to hold the bitches collar while mating takes place, this stops her turning and biting the dog and it also gets the dog used to you handling them. I will also always put a hand on the dogs back or rump right from the first bitch..then if in the future you get a difficult bitch ,your dog is used to you being involved
If he doesn't seem to be achieving penetration, try to adjust the bitch by lowering her rump, or raising her off the ground with telephone books or a  step etc.  If this doesn't work, try to adjust her vulva from underneath and see if you can help the stud dog make contact. The dog’s penis has a bone in it, and when the two dogs connect, it can often surprise and startle the bitch. It can harm the male to have a bitch flinch or jump at this time. this is also a time when she may turn to bite..if you are the one behind the bitch ,remind the owner to hold that collar tight..
After the dog has penetrated the bitch, he will start long thrusts meant to help him achieve a tie.  You might want to help him stay mounted on the bitch (believe it or not, they sometimes fall off) by holding his rump up against the bitch.   Try not to distract him while you are helping him.  After the tie has been achieved, the dog will stop thrusting and will either remain on top of the bitch or will turn around backwards so the two are butt-to-butt. You can help the dog turn around however do not try this too soon or he might slip out, its a good idea to hold both tails together in one hand at this point to stop the bitch pulling away.
Try to make the couple as comfortable as possible. . Ties can last upwards to an hour with twenty minutes being average.  Tie of over an hour can be dangerous to the dog..if this happens seek advice. Also some dogs do not 'tie' but as long as the dog ejaculated into the bitch then you may still get puppies.
After the two separate,often the dogs penis is out of its sheaf, it is important he retracts it, do not put him back in his kennel or with other dogs until he retracts completely back.. Occasionally the owner has to aid in this, not a pleasant job but there is a danger to the dog if it does not go back correctly.The longer it is exposed the drier it becomes and hard to retract.longer than a few mins and you need to either help or get help.

It is the responsibility of the bitch owner to arrange the correct day to bring their bitch. remember semen can live in the bitch between 3-5 days, or longer and most bitches ovulate over a number of days. Matings's are usually performed every other day until the bitch is no longer receptive, or it is determined by testing that she is no longer fertile.

*Note* stud dog owners are as responsible as bitch owners for puppies produced. So just taking the money and run isnt good enough.Stud owners should have a duty of care to those puppies.and if you consider the bitch owner isnt capable of rearing a litter then do not allow your dog to be used. and if the bitch owner has difficulty selling puppies then the stud owner should try to help.if the bitch is of poor quality remember ..She carries half the genes the puppies will inherit... Those puppies not only carry your dogs blood line,they carry your Kennel name on them.


Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest